Birthstone of the Month - Emerald

Born in May? Your Birthstone of the Month is the always eye catching Emerald. Discover more here about it’s history and symbolism, and just a few of the famed emerald jewels throughout history.

EMERALD & DIAMOND RING

A stunning and distinctive emerald ring set in 9ct White Gold

About Emeralds

Emeralds have been coveted for millennia, the earliest unearthed around 2.97 billion years ago. Recognisable for their rich green hue, the name stems from the ancient Greek term “smaragdus”, meaning “green gem.”

Emeralds are a variety of beryl, a mineral that is also the source of aquamarine, with the green colouring the result of trace amounts of chromium or vanadium. They have a wonderful depth of colour, although the palest may sometimes be classified as beryl rather than emerald. Some of the most valuable emeralds are a highly saturated mid to dark blue-green. Emeralds feature inclusions, which is one way to differentiate the natural from the synthetic. The finest examples also have excellent transparency.

Alongside the diamond, ruby and sapphire, the emerald is known as one of the "big four" gemstones. While diamonds are widely viewed as the crowning gemstone, emeralds are actually rarer and may command even higher prices.

Emeralds were highly valued by ancient cultures including the Incas and Aztecs, and South America remains one of the world’s great emerald producers, providing close to 50% of the world’s emeralds. While emerald mining occurs in countries including Australia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Brazil, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Russia, Columbian emeralds are the most prized, at times priced at close to US$100,000 a carat.

In addition to being the May birthstone, the emerald also marks the 20th and 35th wedding anniversaries.

History, Royalty and Renewal

Emerald gemstones were mined in Egypt from around 300BCE, and Cleopatra was perhaps the first historical figure to covet the gemstone, adorning herself with emerald jewellery to symbolise power and authority. Emeralds were also buried with pharoahs, as symbols of protection, rebirth and eternal life.

Emeralds were sacred for pre-Columbian cultures that viewed them as symbols of life and fertility. And in India, traditional texts referred to emeralds as “marakata,” meaning the lush green of nature. During the Mughal period, artisans carved emeralds with verses from the Quran, while emeralds adorned the jewellery of Maharajas to showcase wealth and status.

Cleopatra’s fondness for the gemstone marked the start of a long association with royalty, across nations and centuries. Napoleon presented emerald jewels to his first wife, the Empress Josephine (Marie-Josèphe Rose de Tascher de la Pagerie) which she wore to their coronation in Paris in 1804. The Norwegian royal family owns a spectacular set of emeralds which Queen Sonja donned at the wedding of Frederik, Crown Prince of Denmark, and Mary Donaldson in 2004. While British royals regularly seen in stunning emerald tiaras and pendants have included Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana and the Duchess of Cambridge.

In some cultures, it was believed an emerald could help the wearer predict the future, reveal the truth, be protected from spells, or even be cured of diseases. More widely, emeralds are believed to represent hope, renewal and growth, their striking colouring also associated with nature and new beginnings.

Revered and Famed Emerald Jewellery

With their association with wealth, power and luxury, emeralds have been prized by royalty, politicians, celebrities and historical leaders. Here are just a few of a long list of notable emerald jewels.

Crafted in the Popyán community in Colombia in the 16th century, the Crown of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, known as the Crown of the Andes, was designed to adorn a sacred image of the Virgin Mary in the local cathedral. The crown features intricate vine work in pure gold and flower-shaped emerald clusters, a reference to the Virgin Mary’s purity. The crown is topped with imperial arches, an orb and a cross, representing Christ’s power. You can view the crown at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Another famed emerald is The Chalk Emerald, a 37.8-carat gemstone renowned for it’s exceptional colour and clarity. Emeralds had been unearthed in Columbia for at least 1,000 years before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century, with the finest hailing from the regions of Muzo and Chivor. The Spanish began trading the gems back to Europe, the Middle East and India. According to legend, the Chalk Emerald was once part of an emerald and diamond necklace belonging to a Maharani of the former Indian state of Baroda. At one point it was recut and set in a platinum and gold ring designed by American gemologist, Harry Winston, who added 60 pear-shaped diamonds totalling 15 carats. In 1972 it was donated to the Smithsonian by Mr. and Mrs. O. Roy Chalk and is now on display in the Museum of Natural History.

Hollywood royalty has also fallen for emeralds, with Richard Burton gifting Elizabeth Taylor an elegant set of Bvlgari emerald jewellery while filming Cleopatra in Rome in the 1960s. In 2011, Christies presented The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor: The Legendary Jewels, Evening Sale. On offer were pieces from the set including a beautiful Emerald and Diamond Flower Brooch, a Ring, a Pendant Brooch and a Necklace. The Pendant Brooch sold for a world-record US $6,578,500, while a buyer scooped up the Bvlgari Emerald and Diamond Necklace for US $6,130,500.

Today found in the Musee de Louvre, the emerald-encrusted Tiara of the Duchess of Angoulême is described as a masterpiece of Restoration jewellery due to the richness of the stones, classical style and quality craftsmanship. Created by Christophe-Frédéric Bapst and Jacques-Evrard Bapst, jewellers to the Crown until the Second Empire, it was a gift from Louis XVIII to his niece, the Duchess of Angoulême. A large almost square emerald sits makes a striking centrepiece amidst scrolls of brilliant cut diamonds and fourteen emeralds.

Bespoke and Antique Emerald Rings, Pendants and Earrings

Prischl is a leading Sydney jeweller, crafting exquisite bespoke jewellery and sourcing antique and vintage jewels from around the world - including stunning emeralds.

To enquire, please visit our online gallery, drop into our boutique in Sydney’s Northbridge, or contact us.

Birthstone of the Month - Diamond

Born in April? Your Birthstone of the Month is the always elegant Diamond. Discover more about it’s meaning, mythology and extraordinary famed diamonds throughout history.

A FLOWER DIAMOND RING

A timeless and elegant design set in 18ct White Gold

About Diamonds

Diamonds are truly unique among minerals. They are the only gemstone made from a single element (typically 99.95% carbon) and they are the hardest naturally occurring substance on earth. Formed deep within the earth’s crust under very high pressure, diamonds have been adopted for industrial applications - high performance cutting, drilling, polishing and as insulators in electrical engineering - but where they truly shine is as an exquisite jewellery centrepiece.

We typically pictured diamonds as translucent, or possibly a pale pink, but they do come in a range of colours including yellow, orange, green, purple and black. The rarest diamond colours are red (called Fancy Reds) followed by pink, with the former Argyle Mine in Australia providing over 90% of the world’s pink diamonds before it’s closure in 2020. Other major producers of natural diamonds include Africa, Russia and Canada.

Natural diamonds are now accompanied by lab grown diamonds, with the only difference between the two being their origin. Indistinguishable from the natural variety and using the same grading standards as mined diamonds, lab diamonds are gaining popularity because of their affordability and accessibility. You can read more about Lab v Mined Diamonds in our March newsletter.

As well as being the birthstone for April, diamonds mark the 60th and 75th wedding anniversaries. Over the last century, they have also become the preferred stone for engagement rings, symbolising love and eternity.

History & Mythology

First formed about 3.3 billion years ago, diamonds have captivated cultures throughout history.

Whilst not as common in Ancient Egypt as materials such as gold, silver, lapis lazuli, carnelian and faience, diamonds still held sway as a symbol of the sun, power, truth and courage. For ancient Indians, diamonds represented clarity and invincibility, by some accounts, believed to be formed when lightning struck the earth. Ancient Greeks and Romans likened diamonds to the tears of the gods, or according to Plato, as living beings embodying celestial spirits. And during the Middle Ages and Renaissance, diamonds became synonymous with healing.

The association with love stems from ancient societies, which also associated diamonds with beauty and passion. According to Roman mythology, Cupid’s arrows were tipped with diamonds. While the diamond also came to be associated with the Greek term ‘adamas’, meaning invincible, unconquerable and for eternity.

Diamonds were not always used for engagement rings however, with emeralds, rubies and sapphires popular in Edwardian and Victorian times, sometimes paired with a diamond. The De Beer diamond company is credited with popularising the diamond engagement ring. In 1947, it launched it’s classic “A Diamond is Forever” slogan which followed one of the most successful marketing campaigns in history. It’s advertisements featuring glamorous Hollywood stars in diamond jewels saw sales increase by 50 percent during the 1930’s.

The World’s Most Famous Diamonds

It is perhaps not surprising that some diamonds have achieved extraordinary fame. Among them is the Koh-i-Noor Diamond, originally from India and believed to be a specific diamond mentioned in a 5,000-year-old Sanskrit text. The name Koh-i-Noor ("Mountain of Light") was bestowed by the Persian general, Nadir Shah, who acquired the diamond in the 18th century. It changed hands many times, often through conflict, and was ultimately claimed by the East India Company for Britain in 1849, when it was cut into a 108.93 carat gem for Queen Victoria. It has passed down through British royalty and now resides with the Crown Jewels in the Tower of London, although India continues to dispute it’s British possession.

The Hope Diamond at 45.52 carats, is the largest deep blue diamond in the world, and possibly the most famous. It is believed to have been discovered by Jean-Baptiste Tavernier who sold it to Louis XIV in 1668. It disappeared from France in 1789, emerging in England 20 years later. Through most of the 19th century it was held by the Hope banking family. It was sold to Cartier in 1910, who turned it into a pendant, before it was purchased by Evalyn Walsh McLean, an American mining heiress. Today it is part of the Smithsonian collection in Washington.

The Regent Diamond was discovered in India in 1698 and claimed by Thomas Pitt, the English Governor of Madra. It was transported and cut in England, before passing to French royalty. It appeared on the coronation crowns of Louis XV, Louis XVI and Charles X coronation, and most famously, on the crown of Napoleon III. Today, it is on public display in the Louvre in Paris.

Also part of the Crown Jewels in London, the Cullinan Diamond is the largest gem-quality diamond in history, it’s outstanding size of 3,106 carats matched by unparalleled clarity. Uncoverd in 1905 at the Premier Mine near Pretoria, South Africa by mine worker Frederick G. S. Wells, it was named for the mine’s owner, Sir Thomas Cullinan. In another disputed colonial transaction, it was presented to Edward VII by the Transvaal Government.

The Cullinan Diamond was cut into nine diamonds, named Cullinan I to IX, as well as 96 smaller diamonds. The 530-carat Cullinan I, also known as the Star of Africa, is set in the British Royal Sceptre, while the second largest stone, the 317 carat Cullinan II features on the Imperial State Crown used in British coronations. The other larger diamonds are set into pendants and brooches, privately owned by the Royal family.

Bespoke and Antique Diamonds

Prischl is a leading Sydney jeweller, crafting exquisite bespoke jewellery and sourcing antique and vintage jewels from around the world - including stunning natural and lab grown diamonds.

To enquire, please visit our online gallery, drop into our boutique in Sydney’s Northbridge, or contact us.

Birthstone of the Month - Aquamarine

Born in March? Your Birthstone of the Month is a gorgeous Aquamarine. Discover more about it’s history, appearance and mythology.

AN Aquamarine & DIAMOND RING

With Aquamarines and Diamonds set in 9ct White Gold

About Aquamarine

Aquamarines are named after the sea, the blue-green hue reminiscent of a cool, beautiful ocean. They come in a range of blue-greens, from a subtle pale blue to a deep blue, and a greenish blue.

While the main sources of aquamarines are Minas Gerais in Brazil and the Karakorum Foothills of Pakistan, they are mined around the world, from Kenya to Colorado, China, Myanmar and Russia.

What to look for in aquamarine jewellery? With variations in hue, you can choose your preferred shade and opt for clear blue or a green-blue. Most quality aquamarines are clean with good transparency. While emerald-cut aquamarines are popular, they can be cut into virtually any shape, including oval and round. Aquamarines are also available in larger carats, with the darker shades tending to be 5ct or more.

Aquamarines are stunning stones that make an impact as either a standalone piece, or set with diamonds or other gemstones.

History & Mythology

According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the name is derived from the Latin words aqua, meaning “water” and marina, meaning “of the sea.” Roman fisherman apparently believed it brought protection on the water, while the presence of the mineral beryl was also thought to keep the wearer safe, amiable and of sharp intellect.

Aquamarines have been discovered in ancient cultures, including Egypt, Rome and Greece, with the Greeks often carving aquamarine for intaglio.

Famous aquamarines include the Roosevelt Aquamarine (a 1,298ct stone gifted to Eleanor Roosevelt in 1936 by the Brazilian government and now in the Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library and Museum in New York), the Smithsonian Museums "Most Precious" (a 1000ct aquamarine) and the Dom Pedro Aquamarine, shaped into an obelisk and believed to be the largest faceted aquamarine in the world. Also with the Smithsonian, it is now housed in the National History Museum in Washington.

Also the gemstone for the 19th wedding anniversary, aquamarine has also long been associated with love. One mythology states that Neptune, the King of the Sea, gave aquamarines to the mermaids. Since then, they bring love to all who own them.

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Prischl is a leading Sydney jewellery, crafting exquisite bespoke jewellery and sourcing antique and vintage jewels from around the world. To enquire, please visit our online gallery, drop into our boutique in Sydney’s Northbridge, or contact us.

Meet Jeweller Izabella Kriek

Now a fully qualified jeweller, Izabella Kriek joined Prischl as an apprentice in 2021, building exceptional skills in jewellery design, modelling and repair. Her talent and dedication were recognised in 2023 with a TAFE NSW Graduate Award for Outstanding Apprentice. You will also find Izabella at the Prischl counter, providing first class service to our valued customers.

AWARD WINNING APPRENTICE TO OUTSTANDING JEWELLER

From Dance to Design

Izabella’s creativity and precision were initially honed in a different sphere. Her first passion was ballet, and Izabella studied with a prestigious dance school in Melbourne from Years 9 to 12. When circumstances changed and she was unable to continue, she began to look for a new career – and jewellery beckoned.

Whilst searching for university courses, Izabella found information on jewellery design and her immediate thought was that she could make a career of it. When a family member mentioned that she knew a jeweller, Izabella came by to talk to Peter for advice, and he offered her an apprenticeship.

 “She is the best apprentice I’ve ever had”, says Peter. “She’s an excellent employee and she can always do what customers ask for. I couldn’t fault her at all.”

Bespoke and Beautiful

Through the three and a half year apprenticeship, Izabella built robust skills in the end-to-end jewellery process – from design through repair, restoration, modelling and polishing. She has a strong knowledge of metals and gemstones, and is an accomplished buyer, sourcing beautiful jewellery from around the world.

Her own creations are eclectic and include silver, gold and gemstone jewellery inspired by nature, or by classic Art Deco or Art Nouveau design.

For the apprenticeship award, Izabella’s teachers nominated her based on her overall skills and exquisite creations including an Art Nouveau style bracelet, pendant and rings in gold and sterling silver.

Izabella’s creations on display at the award night

A Winning Career

Izabella supports Peter in managing the Prischl boutique, and in designing and restoring precious jewellery pieces for our clients.

 “Living in a world with so much technology, what I get to do is pretty amazing. Seeing the whole process from raw metal to final creation, using my hands, restoring something that is precious to someone, and then seeing their face when you hand it over, it’s very satisfying.”

Built on generations of experience and knowledge, Prischl specialises in exquisite bespoke, vintage and antique jewellery. Contact us or visit our Northbridge boutique today to see the full Prischl collection.