Born in May? Your Birthstone of the Month is the always eye catching Emerald. Discover more here about it’s history and symbolism, and just a few of the famed emerald jewels throughout history.
EMERALD & DIAMOND RING
A stunning and distinctive emerald ring set in 9ct White Gold
About Emeralds
Emeralds have been coveted for millennia, the earliest unearthed around 2.97 billion years ago. Recognisable for their rich green hue, the name stems from the ancient Greek term “smaragdus”, meaning “green gem.”
Emeralds are a variety of beryl, a mineral that is also the source of aquamarine, with the green colouring the result of trace amounts of chromium or vanadium. They have a wonderful depth of colour, although the palest may sometimes be classified as beryl rather than emerald. Some of the most valuable emeralds are a highly saturated mid to dark blue-green. Emeralds feature inclusions, which is one way to differentiate the natural from the synthetic. The finest examples also have excellent transparency.
Alongside the diamond, ruby and sapphire, the emerald is known as one of the "big four" gemstones. While diamonds are widely viewed as the crowning gemstone, emeralds are actually rarer and may command even higher prices.
Emeralds were highly valued by ancient cultures including the Incas and Aztecs, and South America remains one of the world’s great emerald producers, providing close to 50% of the world’s emeralds. While emerald mining occurs in countries including Australia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Brazil, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Russia, Columbian emeralds are the most prized, at times priced at close to US$100,000 a carat.
In addition to being the May birthstone, the emerald also marks the 20th and 35th wedding anniversaries.
History, Royalty and Renewal
Emerald gemstones were mined in Egypt from around 300BCE, and Cleopatra was perhaps the first historical figure to covet the gemstone, adorning herself with emerald jewellery to symbolise power and authority. Emeralds were also buried with pharoahs, as symbols of protection, rebirth and eternal life.
Emeralds were sacred for pre-Columbian cultures that viewed them as symbols of life and fertility. And in India, traditional texts referred to emeralds as “marakata,” meaning the lush green of nature. During the Mughal period, artisans carved emeralds with verses from the Quran, while emeralds adorned the jewellery of Maharajas to showcase wealth and status.
Cleopatra’s fondness for the gemstone marked the start of a long association with royalty, across nations and centuries. Napoleon presented emerald jewels to his first wife, the Empress Josephine (Marie-Josèphe Rose de Tascher de la Pagerie) which she wore to their coronation in Paris in 1804. The Norwegian royal family owns a spectacular set of emeralds which Queen Sonja donned at the wedding of Frederik, Crown Prince of Denmark, and Mary Donaldson in 2004. While British royals regularly seen in stunning emerald tiaras and pendants have included Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana and the Duchess of Cambridge.
In some cultures, it was believed an emerald could help the wearer predict the future, reveal the truth, be protected from spells, or even be cured of diseases. More widely, emeralds are believed to represent hope, renewal and growth, their striking colouring also associated with nature and new beginnings.
Revered and Famed Emerald Jewellery
With their association with wealth, power and luxury, emeralds have been prized by royalty, politicians, celebrities and historical leaders. Here are just a few of a long list of notable emerald jewels.
Crafted in the Popyán community in Colombia in the 16th century, the Crown of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, known as the Crown of the Andes, was designed to adorn a sacred image of the Virgin Mary in the local cathedral. The crown features intricate vine work in pure gold and flower-shaped emerald clusters, a reference to the Virgin Mary’s purity. The crown is topped with imperial arches, an orb and a cross, representing Christ’s power. You can view the crown at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
Another famed emerald is The Chalk Emerald, a 37.8-carat gemstone renowned for it’s exceptional colour and clarity. Emeralds had been unearthed in Columbia for at least 1,000 years before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century, with the finest hailing from the regions of Muzo and Chivor. The Spanish began trading the gems back to Europe, the Middle East and India. According to legend, the Chalk Emerald was once part of an emerald and diamond necklace belonging to a Maharani of the former Indian state of Baroda. At one point it was recut and set in a platinum and gold ring designed by American gemologist, Harry Winston, who added 60 pear-shaped diamonds totalling 15 carats. In 1972 it was donated to the Smithsonian by Mr. and Mrs. O. Roy Chalk and is now on display in the Museum of Natural History.
Hollywood royalty has also fallen for emeralds, with Richard Burton gifting Elizabeth Taylor an elegant set of Bvlgari emerald jewellery while filming Cleopatra in Rome in the 1960s. In 2011, Christies presented The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor: The Legendary Jewels, Evening Sale. On offer were pieces from the set including a beautiful Emerald and Diamond Flower Brooch, a Ring, a Pendant Brooch and a Necklace. The Pendant Brooch sold for a world-record US $6,578,500, while a buyer scooped up the Bvlgari Emerald and Diamond Necklace for US $6,130,500.
Today found in the Musee de Louvre, the emerald-encrusted Tiara of the Duchess of Angoulême is described as a masterpiece of Restoration jewellery due to the richness of the stones, classical style and quality craftsmanship. Created by Christophe-Frédéric Bapst and Jacques-Evrard Bapst, jewellers to the Crown until the Second Empire, it was a gift from Louis XVIII to his niece, the Duchess of Angoulême. A large almost square emerald sits makes a striking centrepiece amidst scrolls of brilliant cut diamonds and fourteen emeralds.
Bespoke and Antique Emerald Rings, Pendants and Earrings
Prischl is a leading Sydney jeweller, crafting exquisite bespoke jewellery and sourcing antique and vintage jewels from around the world - including stunning emeralds.
To enquire, please visit our online gallery, drop into our boutique in Sydney’s Northbridge, or contact us.